One of my favourite bars — and bartenders — making up my new favourite cocktail.
Thanks Yumi-san!
[yes it's a very primitive gif, but it gives the idea]
My favourite Portuguese restaurant has sprouted a spin-off. And it's a sweet addition to the neighborhood.
I've been a big fan of Cristiano's since just about the time it opened three years ago. So I was very pleased when I heard they were opening a bakery -- and even more so when I found it would be making that supreme delicacy, pastel de nata: Portuguese egg-custard tart.
Nata de Cristiano's is just a short walk away from the restaurant, on the other side of busy Inogashira-dori. With its tiles, blue canopy and small outside courtyard complete with lemon tree, it looks nothing but welcoming.
It's just as cheerful inside, with bold colourful hand-drawn murals...
It's a workshop, not a cafe. There are no seats -- apart from that bench outside -- just sufficient space to stand and place your order as you gaze through the hatch-like counter to the bakery beyond.
And once your pastel arrives — of course one is not enough, and you're likely to learn fast that the plural of pastel (in Portuguese) is pasteis — there are a couple of small shiny shakers by the check-out so you can dust them with extra cinnamon (essential) or sugar (absolutely unnecessary)...
The menu is short — and it's not just sweet. The custard tarts may be the main attraction, but don't leave without trying the other speciality of the house, empanada de frango: small, round and very satisfying chicken pies made with a delectable cheese-infused pie-crust.
They're also baking wholesome wholemeal bread; and there's a selection of Portuguese wine in the fridge, with one of them now served by the cup. Since I took that photo (below right), they've also started offering a small range of deli items, such as spicy octopus and pâté of sardine...
If you've been to Cristiano's (the restaurant), the hand-painted artwork inside will look very familiar. That's the trademark style of Keeda Oikawa, illustrator and live-painter extraordinaire. This must be one of the most cheerful work spaces in Tokyo!
So, if you can't eat the goodies on the spot, where can you take them nearby? That's a no-brainer: you're just a minute or so from Fuglen. They're totally OK with you bringing in your own snacks. Perfect with a cup of their excellent coffee... or perhaps a pot of Assam Tea.
That's the chicken pie in the front. And the pastel behind it. A very fine lunch.
The website/PR blurb (in JP) for Nata de Cristiano's is here...
And the google map link is here…
Okay, so you can guess where it is and what they sell, but the name only tells half the story. Shibuya Cheese Stand doesn't just sell cheese, they actually make it on the premises. There are two kinds: a mozzarella type; and a ricotta. Both are available in packs, or made into sandwiches which you can eat in or take out.
You can tell from the flowers these young artisans are brand new on the block. The soft opening was yesterday. And today was the official first day of business. Omedetou gozaimasu!
It's all nice and spick and span. The cheese workshop is a glass-enclosed space to one side, with a counter in front so you can sit and watch the action. It's not the sort of place you'd go to chill out in, but they play ambient-indie CDs on their sound system.
Here's the menu...
Shibuya Cheese Stand is right across from NHK (the East Exit, up past Tokyu Hands) on the opposite side of the street. Just look for the cow...
The name may be Shibuya — but the actual address is Kamiyamacho, right next to Tomigaya. Chalk one more up for this great little neighborhood!
The adddress: 5-8 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya-ku; (03) 6407-9806
The web site: http://www.cheese-stand.com/
I gave Fuglen a full write-up last week, soon after it opened. I also introduced it in my Japan Times column yesterday.
As mentioned, Fuglen doesn't actually serve food — but they do encourage you to bring your own to nibble on with their premium coffee...
…craft beer (they have a good selection in bottles) and house-special highballs, whiskey sours and other cocktails.
So what would I take to eat there? Well pastries or the excellent baguette sandwiches from Viron, just opposite Tokyu Honten in Shibuya...
Or, in the other direction, one of the gourmet burgers from Arms, whose take-out/delivery outlet is just a couple of minutes walk away — or 30 seconds by Honda 90 delivery bike — on the Yoyogi Hachiman shopping street.
I'll put up full posts about both those places in due course. In fact, it's about time I put together a full-scale post about the Tomigaya/Yoyogi Koen area. There's just too much good stuff happening on the edge of the park here!
Cheers!
• Update late 2012: Fuglen is now offering a good selection of pastries (not Danish of course!), plus sandwiches with smoked salmon or cheese. But you are still welcome to BYOF.
Food writer and restaurant reviewer for the Japan Times contact: foodfile (at) me (dot) com
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