My chat with Elizabeth Andoh about her latest book, Kansha, took place at Itosho, the peaceful little shojin ryori restaurant in Azabu-Juban. There was only enough space on the page for a brief review, and just the skimpiest of photos. So here is the visual rundown of our lunch there a couple of weeks ago...
The opening tray...
• winter persimmon and mitsuba herb in a goma-ae dressing
• black beans in a light syrup
• daikon namasu: fine julienned daikon and carrot, salted and left overnight, served with aemono of tofu blended with ground walnut
"Ineffable suimono clear soup, containing a single chestnut dango dumpling and decorated with swirling fronds of hime-negi scallions as fine as baby chives, and gently perfumed with fragrant yuzu."
Chef Ito’s signature dish, his shojin-age. Morsels of vegetable — nasu eggplant, shiitake, shishito green pepper, carrot, yurine (lily bulb) — and tofu deep-fried with a frosting of of tiny “pebbles” made of rice flour.
"Eaten with just a little dab of salt, the flavors are simple but profound, just like the principles of shojin ryori itself."
We were the only customers that day, and owner-chef Hiroharu Ito had time to serve us himself.
• kuri no shibukawa — a whole chestnut, garnished with sazanka leaves
• edible chrysanthemum petals and spinach leaf
• oniku-modoshi (a.k.a seitan) — wheat gluten prepared to gently mimic the look/taste of meat
"A hearty bowl of soba noodles topped with smooth, slithery grated tororo yam..."
"Nasu no mizore, deep-fried eggplants covered with a pure white layer of grated daikon, symbolizing the snows of winter, splashed with the colors of fine-chopped scallions and piquant orange-red togarashi peppers."
To close: the shokuji course comprised kuri-gohan (rice with chestnuts), pickles and an excellent, savory misoshiru — Chef Ito makes his dashi in the classic shojin way, using kombu with Rishiri kombu, dried shiitake mushrooms and kanpyo gourd.
And finally — not so much as an afterthought, more a parting gesture, a couple of fat winter strawberries.
In the spirit of kansha cooking, you are invited to take your chopsticks home with you…
"In this peaceful traditional setting — tatami mats, wooden beams, pillars and shoji screens, a kakijutsu scroll in the tokonoma alcove — life slows down. You have time to contemplate your meal, the ingredients, the ceramics they are served on, the gracious hospitality. Time for appreciation. Time for kansha."
Here's a map link...
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