In my latest Japan Times column, I revist the remarkable Bakka Pizza foodtruck, in the backstreets of Shibuya.
I first introduced Bakka in my blog two years ago, soon after the it opened.
It's just as good now, and a lot more popular. In fact it's become a Shibuya institution, and looks set to stay that way – at least, for as long as that vacant lot stays vacant…
My column today in The Japan Times is a year-end round-up. Not necessarily the best of the year — most of those have already featured in columns over the past twelve months — but the best of the rest. Expect to see more about them in print (or on this blog) in 2014.
• starting with Kojyu — one of my meals of the year…
• L'Osier was the opening of the year. A three-star Tokyo legend is reborn…
• Takumi Shingo, the new offshoot of the legendary Sushi Sho...
• Ata, the hugely popular French (and English) accented grill on the fringe of Shibuya…
• L'Hommage, inventive French in Asakusa: great mains, such as this rack of lamb coated with kinome miso…
…and beautiful desserts.
• Akomeya in Ginza: more than just a great resource for Japanese foods, condiments, seasonings and high-end kitchen supplies (yes, and a rice store too)...
…it also has a nice little standing-only sake counter, as well as a simple, shokudo-style restaurant at the back.
• The new branch of DevilCraft brought craft beer and their trademark deep-dish pizza to the backstreets of Hamamatsucho…
• And Craft Beer Market Awajicho — the third branch of this excellent Japanese craft beer specialist — features stylish taps…
…and an in-house oven producing craft pizzas – this one (below) featuring spicy lamb sausage and a well-charred pie!
Stand by for a fourth CBM branch, in Mitsukoshimae, by the spring.
• And finally, a sad farewell to the wonderful, historic, atmospheric Yabu Soba. They're promising to rebuild, but all that's visible now is a parking lot. End of an era.
Well, Mardi Gras went fast, leaving behind nothing but pancake memories...
And now it's Ash Wednesday, already. Here's just the right pizza to mark the occasion...
My first guess was that squid ink had been used to give it that strong black colour. But it turned out to be ash -- takesumi (bamboo ash), in fact.
Score another one for the folks at Paradise Alley, the little bakery tucked in next to the farmers' market in Kamakura.
Paradise Alley is on the Food File map here.
And, just the other day, I even came across takesumi ash being used in a dessert — or rather I found this photo by drtomostyle...
Takesumi roll cake: brilllant!
Marinara at Seirinkan, in backstreet Naka-Meguro. Still one of the best in town.
As I wrote after it first opened (though nothing at all has changed):
Before the arrival of high-end pizza a few years back, the fabled Savoy was turning out premium pies from its wood-fired oven in the Naka-Meguro backstreets. The original eatery finally bit the dust this year, but has reincarnated just across the same alley with a curious retro look and calling itself Seirinkan.
Owner Susumu Kakinuma, Tokyo's original pizzaiolo, remains as antifashion and nongourmet as ever, resolutely producing only two varieties: marinara and margherita. They’re still just as excellent.
There’s a small counter on the ground floor where you can see him at work, or head up the cast-iron spiral stairs to dining rooms with funky secondhand furniture and retro-Soviet decor.
Seirinkan, 2-6-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; (03) 3714-5160. Open 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. (or when the pizza dough runs out); Saturdays from noon; Sunday and holidays till 9 p.m.)
From my Japan Times 2007 year-end round-up (scroll down to the bottom). What I didn't mention then was that Seirinkan also serves various pasta and a range of basic antipasti. None of them are comparable in quality to the pizza.
It doesn't get much better than this -- pizza and wine in the great outdoors... Who cares if the setting is not quite Chiantishire? Or the vino rosso is served in a paper cup? Just as long as the pizza is as good as the company...
You'll have to read Mark Robinson's excellent piece (up today on CNNGo) for the full story. But this is where to come for the photos in their full-size glory.
First things first: Yutaka Hazama makes a fine pizza. He's done his research and he's got the pie down nicely. Doesn't hurt that he's got a good woodfired brick oven, and he's tried and tested his recipe and technique till the results come out just right.
So what if his kitchen is the back of his van?
And so what if the setting is less than salubrious -- an empty lot off a salaryman's alley on the edge of Love Hotel Hill in Shibuya? The bottom line is it's tasty, it's fun -- and it's VERY Tokyo.
As Mark writes:
It’s noisy and convivial and our conversation turns briefly to gratitude -- for being able to sit here on this summer evening eating cheaply and authentically, and lapping up the passing circus.
And for the perennial wonders of Tokyo food culture -- its self-regulating chaos, its inclusiveness of all social statuses, generations, genres and genders.
Regardless of their ethnic diversity, the more parochial dining scenes of say, Sydney or London, simply don’t offer this laid-back mix.
I'll raise a glass -- or even a paper cup -- to that!
More pizza truck action on a previous post here... and here...
Food writer and restaurant reviewer for the Japan Times contact: foodfile (at) me (dot) com
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