Zezankyo goes Skyward: top inflight tempura

 

Revisiting the remarkable idiosyncratic Mikawa Zezankyo, which is the featured restaurant in my column this month (July) for Skyward, the inflight magazine of Japan Airlines.

It's some of the very best tempura in Tokyo — and one of the most OTT interiors. Which all adds up to a highly memorable meal. 

As at all top tempura places, Saotome-san serves each piece one at a time.                 This mixed platter was only pur together as a special  for the photo shoot.

 

When Saotome opened Zezankyo five years ago, he envisaged it as more than just a restaurant, but also a salon for writers and artists, a place to showcase the work of local craftsmen. He has installed Buddhist statues and art nouveau stained glass, ceramics and bronzes, with lacquerwork everywhere. And, overhead, hangs a huge copper extractor hood in the shape of a Borsalino, his favorite hat.

This, too, is a reflection of his Edomae aesthetic, in which art appreciation intersects with bon-vivant bravado.…"

Unfortunately, copyright restrictions mean I can't show the actual pages of my piece, only the Skyward title page. However, if you're flying in or out of Japan on JAL, I hope this adds a certain vicarious enjoyment to your inflight meal!