tokyo food file

Superb! Massimo Bottura and Luca Fantin collaboration at Bulgari Il Ristorante, Tokyo

Chef Massimo Bottura, of the exceptional Osteria Francescana in Modena, was in town for a couple of days earlier this week.

He was brought over as part of the remarkable and groundbreaking series of events, called "In Cibo Veritas" ("in food there is truth"), organised by Bulgari Il Ristorante in Ginza, featuring some of Italy's finest contemporary chefs. 

As in the previous dinners (this was the 3rd of the 7-part series), it was a collaboration with Bulgari's own in-house chef supreme, Luca Fantin. It was (needless to say) memorable!

 

Having tasted Massimo's cuisine in Modena a couple of years ago (my blog post is here…), I was eager to see which of those classics he was going to serve in Tokyo. I was also really looking forward to trying some new dishes — as well as discovering more of Luca's beautiful creations. 

I'll put some longer descriptions up later. For now I'm going to let the images speak for themselves. Starting with these appetizers…

          

…including this amazing rose (made with slivers of beet and rose jelly), inside an actual red rose on the stem:

 

• Gambero e carcciofi // Shrimp and artichokes (from Luca Fantin):

 

• Triglia all livornese // Mullet livornese style (from Massimo Bottura)

 

• Un capitone risale il fiume Po // An eel swimming up the Po river (Massimo Bottura)

 

• Carpaccio di verdure // Vegetable carpaccio (Luca Fantin)

 

• Riso cacio e pepe // Cheese and pepper risotto (Massimo Bottura)

 

• La parte croccante di una lasagna // The crunchy part of a lasagna (Massimo Bottura)

 

• Agnello paglia e fieno // Lamb "straw and hay" (Luca Fantin)…

The entrecôte of lamb (above) was accompanied by a rich broth made from lamb belly and onions:

 

• "surprise" (Massimo Bottura): "the first ever salad served as a pre-dessert"…

 

• Fragola // Strawberry (Luca Fantin)

 

• Ooops! mi è scivolata la crostatatina! // Ooops! I dropped the lemon tart! (Massimo Bottura)

 

• special balsamico di Modena

 

It was a more than just a superb banquet. It was a work of art and love!

 

 

Thank you Massimo. Thank you Luca. Thank you Bulgari!

seasonal brews 2: Tazawako Cherry Beer

And no better way to welcome the blossoms than a brew of Sakura Beer. It's from Tazawako Beer in Akita Pref., and it's made with a yeast that is (somehow) extracted from cherry trees — not clear about the science here, so if anyone can contribute...

 

Bottom line, though, is that it's excellent — and totally seasonal, of course — and so is Craft Beet Market Jimbocho, which is where we supped on it.

As always, there were plenty of good comestibles to go with it. Starting with a nice fresh salad of new-season shungiku (chrysanthemum) greens...

 

…and then the lamb tsukune — actually more like a giant Indian seekh kebab, with plenty of cumin in that jumbo patty.

 

Great stuff — in fact, worth a lingering close-up...

 

What a buzzy fun place it is, Craft Beer Market. Just don't go along expecting a pub. It's not, it's closer to an izakaya in feel. You go for the food as much as the (excellent and well-priced) drink. If the tables are full, you just have to wait — and most nights you won't be the only people on the waiting list.

 

Here's the relevant section of the menu...

 

Here's a link to my piece for CNN... What's changed since then is that as of last month, Craft Beer Market Jimbocho is now open on Saturdays. It's just as popular, though.

And hold your hats for the third Craft Beer Market. Before the summer is out!

 

Rouge, a wine bar with yakitori (it also serves vin blanc)

Time to shed more light on the source of that under-endowed Balkan sausage. As revealed in my Japan Times column last week, this is one of the highlights of the menu at Rouge, in the back streets of Kagurazaka.

What Rouge serves most of is grilled chicken on skewers. But don't call it a yakitoriya; it's far too well put together for that. Think of it instead as a wine bar that does a great little line in charcoal grilled foods.

It does plenty more as well. Even the otoshi starters are worth mentioning — bruschetta topped with fresh-made ratatouille...

From the hors d'oeuvres: marinated enoki mushrooms...

...and the chicken liver pâté, plain-looking but as good as any we've had at other gourmet yakitori joints.

But the primary focus at Rouge is the charcoal grill.

 

Most of the usual chicken cuts are represented. But instead of the thick shoyu-based tare basting sauce used at traditional yakitori shops, they are seasoned with mustard...

...or yuzu-kosho . Much better if you're drinking wine.

There's an interesting range of non-meat items too, including excellent plump shiitake...

...zucchini annointed with with yuzu miso...

...myoga buds with a "gratin" of lightly browned white miso...

...and even chunks of avocado — great with a spicy sprinkle of shichimi.

But, as mentioned, for us the stand-out item is the ćevapčići, little patties of minced lamb, served with a dab of grain mustard, salad greens and a grilled cherry tomato daubed with balsamic vinegar. 

Here's a link to Rouge's home page...

And here's a map link...

Ćevapčići: coming soon to the Food File

Served with a dab of grain mustard and a lightly grilled cherry tomato daubed with balsamico sauce.

More about ćevapčići here...

As soon as I've been back for a few more pics, all will be revealed...