tokyo food file

chinmi – interesting tidbits, excellent sake

 

On the plate, from left to right…

• Yama-uni tofu – tofu aged in miso so it evokes the look and texture (if not the taste) of uni urchin

• cream cheese aged in sake kasu (lees)

• egg yolk pickled in miso

Just a few of the interesting selection of chinmi tidbits on the menu at Kamozou in Kagurazaka.

 

In the glass, it's Kokuryu daiginjo; and in the kiki-choko that's Izumofuji Akimo hiya-oroshi.

 

 

There's plenty more like that on the menu…

 

…and in the fridge.

 

There are plenty more fine snacks and side dishes as well… 

 

Karasumi: a classic sake nibble

Now that my Japan Times column on Tamayura has seen the light of day, time to return this post to prominence once again.

Tamayura is a gem of an izakaya, a simple place but well worth knowing if you find yourself in the mood for sake and snacks in the Ueno/Yushima area.

More images to follow in a future post…

 

Karasumi is one of the three* classic chinmi — rare/pricy/unusual delicacies to nibble while sipping your sake — of long-established Japanese drinking tradition.

Much like Mediterranean botargo, karasumi is made from preserved mullet roe that has been salted and dried until it turns this rich orange colour. Because the texture is quite sticky, it is customarily served with slices of daikon (as shown above), since the crisp, watery texture of the vegetable contrasts excellently with the dense oiliness of the roe.

 

And what were we drinking with this? Well, for starters this:

                                                        Atagonomatsu, from Niizawa Jozo in Miyagi

 

And this:

                                                                       Kikuyoi (Shizuoka)

 

And this:

                                                Shishinosato (Ishikawa)

What a good evening we had! 

* And what are the other two classic chinmi? By tradition, they are uni (sea urchin) and konowata (sea cucumber innards). But there are numerous others — many of them revolving around fermented seafood viscera, known generically as shiokara. All are umami bombs!

 

Currently (Jan.4), the Japan Times online version is lacking the full address/phone/data. Until that gets sorted out, here are the vital details:

Tamayura, 2-4-4 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo; 050-5796-3001; http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a827304/

• Open 5-11 p.m.; closed Sunday & holidays

• Nearest subway stations: Yushima (Chiyoda Line); Ueno-Hirokoji (Ginza Line)

• What works: Classic architecture; cheerful ambiance.

• What doesn't: Apart from the counter, all seats are on tatami.

• Smoking permitted.

• Cost per person: figure around ¥3,000 (plus drinks).

• Japanese menu; a little English spoken.

NB: Tamayura will reopen after the New Year holiday from Jan. 7.