I do like a nice formal invitation — especially when it comes from an embassy. This, though, was special: the Brazilian embassy inviting me to a formal sit-down meal cooked by Alex Atala and Yoshihiro Narisawa no less. An opportunity not to be missed.
One of the great things about Restaurant Narisawa is that you get to look right into that superb pristine kitchen. So, while the other guests are arriving and making small talk, there's time for a good peek inside…
Taking our seats, we peruse the menu… Lots of things I have no idea of here, which only makes it more exciting…
And after the initial obligatory speeches, the first appetisers start to arrive. What are they? The Japanese wait staff seem to be as much at sea as the rest of us. Hollow sweet peppers filled with water — a very Narisawa touch; and a piquant chilli sorbet…
Then cress stems daubed with Amazon honey and studded with mustard-seed balls and tiny flowers…
A beautiful bowl, containing uni, a pretty little weaving of scallions; and a sorbet of Amazonian caju fruit.
Slivers of karasumi (bottarga) on tapioca "bread"; and a single oyster served with cupuaçu (a fruit distantly related to cacao) and mango, with a slight hit of whisky i the mix too…
Saba (mackerel) with baroa potato and red onion…
Amazing akaza-ebi (small lobster) with yuzu: so great to have this wonderful Narisawa specialty again…
Mini-rice with hata (grouper)
Another Narisawa special: moist, wholesome bread with the signature "moss" butter…
Fugu (puffer fish), served as a fritter and also grilled on a stick…
A rich nourishing broth full of goodness and umami — derived from tucupi (the essence of the cassava/manioc root) and containing plenty of abalone morsels…
Tapioca bread…
Another of Alex's trademark dishes: fettucine made from heart of palm, seasoned with bottarga…
And a delectable chunk of roast duck, served in another broth bursting with that deep tucupi umami…
At this point, Alex himself emerges from the kitchen to serve his house special: aligot. Done well, this thick creamy mix of mashed potato and cheese is a wonderful comfort food. But in Alex's hands it becomes a smooth rich delicacy, well worthy of a fine-dining occasion. He goes around the tables, personally serving each guest in turn…
The finest comfort food imaginable…
Dessert is served: and finally the famous ants make their appearance, their gingery-lemongrass flavour a pin-prick of spicy acidity giving an extra accent to the bacuri fruit…
[and a close-up, against that rich coconut-infused ice…]
The final course pairs strawberries with a sauce thickened with kuzu starch, and magnolia…
And that was it, apart from a last round of speeches…
…and a serving of Narisawa's remarkable matcha warabi-mochi to go with our Brazilian coffee.
After the dinner I sat down with Alex to talk about his cuisine, those remarkable ingredients and his relationship with Japan. A portion of that interview is now up on The Japan Times website here…
If I can find the time, I'd like to put up a special post, with the full text of what he had to say. In the meantime, a huge thank-you to Alex and Chef Narisawa for an utterly memorable evening at table.
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