It's taken me three years to get around to writing a full review of the excellent and very special Nakamura Shokudo. Why? Sometimes I prefer not to shine the spotlight too brightly on the places I like best.
After it opened in 2011, I gave it a brief but enthusiastic recommendation in my newspaper column. But now finally it's time to give it a full write-up in The Japan Times. It really is too good to keep to myself.
So here are a few more images to whet your appetite (plus a map link down at the bottom, to get you there).
Starting with that interior. Bright, functional and not particularly atmospheric – that's one reason they call themselves a shokudo ("canteen")…
A nibble with some sake to get going. This is yama-imo sengiri – tororo yam cut into fine slivers and served with nori and a light dressing (plus wasabi):
Then a plate of mixed sashimi — plus a different sake (this one is Hakurakusei, one of my perennial favourites)…
Next up: shioyaki sanma – saury lightly salted and grilled whole. The fish of this season – the three kanji characters of its name 秋刀魚 literally mean "autumn" "sword" "fish" — it is the perfect plebeian pleasure. More Hakurakusei with that!
Followed by a stir-fry of kara-age chicken with mixed vegetables and shiitake, with a Chinese black-vinegar dressing – we're veering away from strictly Japanese territory here…
And then way out to cross-cultural left-field with spam katsu, a breaded, deep-fried cutlet of spam with a thick layer of eggy mashed potato in the center. Served in proper style with a mound of raw grated cabbage and a bottle of Bull-Dog sauce to annoint it with. [NB on the (Japanese) menu this is actually called Ham Katsu Korokke (ハムカツコロッケ)]
Yes, the food is great – excellent, wholesome quality at very affordable prices – but what makes Nakamura Shokudo really so buzzy and warm are the staff. If you're sitting at the right end of the counter looking into the kitchen, then Saito-san will take good care of you (and may even pose for a photo at the end!)
Nakamura Shokudo is a bit of a walk from Akasaka Station, in the direction of Nogizaka, and very easy to miss. Here's a map link…
One caveat: although they are open daily, Nakamura Shokudo is sometimes taken over for the evening by private parties, especially around New Year. It's highly advisable to check their website (or phone ahead) before going.
