It's not hard to find Abrazo — a few strides away from the now-abandoned Odakyu Line tracks and just opposite the Village Vanguard store, just look for the cheerful paintwork and Mexican flag. And if you need any second guessing, check out the blackboard with its promise of Oaxaca cuisine...
I stumbled in there after a few beers at Ushitora, just around the corner. I expected little more than a basic taco joint. What I found was artisan tortillas…
made in a wooden press and toasted on the griddle...
served with a range of foods that are simple, light and exceedingly tasty. Starting with the guacamole…
tostadas and empanadas…
and some great tacos.
As mentioned, the job of pressing and grilling the tortillas is mostly done by chef auxiliar Tetsuo Nakajima — in my column I award him the made-up title of “tortillador” — who prepares dozens of them every evening and well over 100 on a busy Saturday.
Meanwhile, owner/head-chef Shintaro Kato takes care of just all the other cooking, from those taco fillings — note the excellent carnitas — to sopa azteca made with avocado in a tomato base, plus broken-up tortillas to give the soup more body.
You can see he has a delicate touch — this (below) is the mixed appetizer plate, with the ceviche at the top: raw hotate scallops, marinated in a hibiscus flower infusion together with tamarind to impart tartness, served with small cubes of avocado and tomato, and perked up with coriander leaf.
But you can't leave without trying one of the moles: So far I've only tried the pipian…
and the black, chocolate-infused negro…
Both are excellent and, no surprise, come with an order of tortillas on the side.
This is the team: Kato (center) with chef auxiliar Tetsuo Nakajima (left) and assistant Toma Taneishi (right).
Here's a map link:
And here's the info box which made it into print (but is still missing on the Japan Times website):
