Marinara at Seirinkan, in backstreet Naka-Meguro. Still one of the best in town.
As I wrote after it first opened (though nothing at all has changed):
Before the arrival of high-end pizza a few years back, the fabled Savoy was turning out premium pies from its wood-fired oven in the Naka-Meguro backstreets. The original eatery finally bit the dust this year, but has reincarnated just across the same alley with a curious retro look and calling itself Seirinkan.
Owner Susumu Kakinuma, Tokyo's original pizzaiolo, remains as antifashion and nongourmet as ever, resolutely producing only two varieties: marinara and margherita. They’re still just as excellent.
There’s a small counter on the ground floor where you can see him at work, or head up the cast-iron spiral stairs to dining rooms with funky secondhand furniture and retro-Soviet decor.
Seirinkan, 2-6-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku; (03) 3714-5160. Open 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. (or when the pizza dough runs out); Saturdays from noon; Sunday and holidays till 9 p.m.)
From my Japan Times 2007 year-end round-up (scroll down to the bottom). What I didn't mention then was that Seirinkan also serves various pasta and a range of basic antipasti. None of them are comparable in quality to the pizza.
