When it comes to simple, warming, gently spicy comfort food, it doesn't get a lot better than this: khao tom rice porridge with the full trimmings...
The six side dishes include soft-simmered pork belly, a scramble of goya melon, wok-fried greens and a nicely piquant dish of chicken and onion...
But really it's all about the rice. Khao tom is soft, smooth and neutral (no, not bland), the perfect accompaniment for the side dishes. The perfect way to nourish and settle both stomach and appetite on the morning after the night before...
That was lunch, or rather late breakfast, the other day at Aroyna Tabeta, under the arches in Yurakucho. It's still my favourite Thai restaurant in the city – when it comes to honest-to-goodness street food, at any rate.
It certainly looks the part. Basic, cramped, bright, the airwaves humming with sweet-soft Thai pops, with the kitchen all cluttered and bustling with the young Thai cooking staff.
It's tucked away in a brickwork arch below the Yamanote Line tracks behind the International Forum. But it's hard to miss — just look for the sign saying "630 yen". That's how much all the teishoku set meals cost.
A veritable bargain and a pleasure.
I first wrote up Aroyna (scroll down to the bottom) many years back. Thankfully, it hasn't changed a bit.
