Come what may, the highlight of any meal at Okagesan will be the mixed sashimi platter, featuring four or five different kinds of seafood.
The star item on that plate is the katsuo (skipjack) tataki. Kanzaki sears the filets himself in the traditional fishermen's style over an open fire of straw, which he fires up a couple of times each night illuminating his kitchen and drawing appreciative gasps from all who witness it.
It's an impressive display, but it's not merely for show. The fire seals in the oiliness, imbuing the outer layer of the fish with a distinctive subtle smoky flavor.
The katsuo is at the bottom left in this photo, served simply with a dab of mustard. An absolute classic.
The quotes are from my column introducing Yorozuya Okagsesan in The Japan Times here…
