The warren of streets around Kanda Station has always been one of Tokyo's quintessential old-school carousing districts. But change is arriving even here among the traditional watering holes…
and there's no better example than Brasserie le Zinc. Equal parts wine bar, bistro and salaryman "standing bar," Zinc — it's pronounced the French way, "Zank" — sits halfway along one of the narrowest alleys in the area. You'd barely notice it among the modest izakaya taverns on either side, were it not for the glowing rotisserie machine by the entrance.
Inside, though, you find this 50-year-old two-storey wooden building has been refurbished to match its current incarnation: serving surprisingly good French brasserie cuisine with a strong Basque accent and a highly affordable range of wine.
Downstairs you stand and nurse your drinks at upturned barrels or prop up the counter — yes, it is made of zinc and white tiles, salvaged second-hand from a now-defunct Parisian bistro — which runs along the narrow open prep kitchen.
The mismatched tables and chairs on the second floor have likewise seen better days, but seem to fit the old timber-frame building perfectly. The menu, chalked over one entire wall, is not just extensive, it's a lot more sophisticated than you'd expect from the neighborhood.
Chef Takai — that's him on the right in the photo — spent three years in Europe, most of that time in the Pays Basque close to the Spanish border. He bakes his own focaccia and quiche, stuffs his own homemade garlic sausages…
…and produces excellent, hearty farmhouse dishes such as lamb terrine, cassoulet or axoa, a Basque specialty made from ground beef and lots of spicy Espelette pepper.
He also has plenty of lighter recipes for the summer months. The marinated ayu sweetfish hits the spot just right, especially with a glass of chilled Chardonnay (¥500 for a well-filled glass)…
and his lamb terrine or smoked duck pair nicely with the Pays d'Oc Pinot Noir (also ¥500).
The house wine (from ¥380) is even more affordable; and there is also a wide selection of local and Belgian beer (from ¥500). Ditto with the food menu, which boasts little over ¥1,000. These are honest prices that reflect the neighborhood and the spending power of the local clientele — and in no way diminish the quality of the food and drink.
Before heading over to Kanda, a couple of caveats are in order. The temperature inside Zinc is hot enough at the best of times if you find yourself standing close to the rotisserie; in summer it can be nigh-on unbearable. But if you're eyeing those tables upstairs, be aware that they are invariably booked solid, especially on weekdays. Just as you'd expect in this salaryman territory and with food this good.
Here's a map…
Taken from my current column in The Japan Times...
