To enter Omoide Yokocho – the setting for the recent OPENharvest one-night-only pop-up tacos and margaritas stand – is to travel back decades, to the time when life was hard and pleasures were simple. While most of the rest of Tokyo has been extensively redeveloped (several times over, in some areas) into the modern city you see today, this pocket of narrow alleys in Shinjuku remains firmly entrenched in the middle of the last century.
The entrance, with its modern illuminated sign, gives little clue as to what lies within. In fact, the first few shops are recent, rebuilt after the area was gutted by a fire. Venture further, though, and the alleys reveal their true colours — well, those that you can actually make out through the smoke and patina from the greasy grills of numerous hole-in-the-wall bars and eateries.
This is the place to find those Blade Runner-esque low-life atmospherics that reside in many people's imagined version of Tokyo/Japan/Asia. Here are some images for a vicarious visit...
It was only a few years ago that this area was rebranded and given the euphemistic name Omoide Yokocho (= Memory Lane). Before that it was sometimes referred to as Yakitori Yokocho. But most Tokyoites still know and refer to it by its longstanding nickname, Shomben Yokocho — or Piss Alley. This, even though the area now boasts modern restrooms, rather than the dank, maloderous facilities of yesterday.
Call it what you like, you'll find this colourful block just outside Shinjuku railway station on its northeast corner.
Here's a map link...
