There's one other factor that gives Cristiano's in Tomigaya its distinctive atmosphere: the gorgeous wall paintings. You can't miss the red and black cockerel by the front door...
...or the port barcos rabelos that indicate the way to the rest room...
...or the grove of olive trees that entwine themselves all the way into and around the smallest room...
They're all the work of Keeda Oikawa, an artist who lives close by Cristiano's. Apparently she was given a key and a free hand, and she let herself into the restaurant in the wee hours to work her mural magic during the night.
These days Keeda is best known for her live painting performances, and is in frequent demand not just in Tokyo but around Japan and also abroad. Here's a (shaky hand-held) clip of her in action at a Fair Trade fashion show last year...
Her distinctive artwork can also be seen adorning the walls of Vi-sand, a bright little specialist cafe/diner in Shimo-Kitazawa that specializes in banh-mi and, in the evening, light Vietnamese snacks (as introduced in my Japan Times column last Friday).
Vi-sand originally opened in February, not long before seismic events brought the city to a grinding halt. To relaunch the business, the owners asked Keeda to decorate the walls in her trademark style — and to also do to a small live painting session at the beginning of last month.
Nice place, fun event, great art!