Are you really sure you want tororo, the master asks me. And he's still not confident when he serves it, slathered all over the donburi of rice, with a bowl of akadashi on the side, a raw egg, some crisp lotus root, and a few pickles — and those very suspiciously green candied peas.
It's a classic shokudo-style lunch — served in a classic mid/late Showa-style diner-restaurant. And yes I did want it. In fact there are times when I crave to eat this simple, satisfying way.
The name is Sen Riki, and it specialises in crab from Hokkaido. But it's basically an izakaya with food, that also does lunch. And it looks as if it's barely changed since it was built in the 1960s. Even the BGM is a constant rotation of doo-wop and early 60s pop.
It could be anywhere in the city — indeed, virtually anywhere in Japan. But in fact it's the last vestige of the traditional community that once stood at what is now the Shibuya end of Cat Street. Once there were the usual neighbourhood stores — rice merchant, sake shop, etc — but now it's all youth fashion boutiques.
You'll find this classic hold-out just along from the Pink Dragon and around the corner from Rocker and Hooker. Long may it run.
Here's a map link...
UPDATE AUTUMN 2013: The whole row of buildings has been shuttered up prior to redevelopment. One of the last lingering slices of neighbourhood in central Shibuya is no more.
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