It's always exciting to try a new food for the first time — especially when it's given such a fabulous presentation (and there's a definite frisson of danger involved). A small humble-looking plate on a simple tray of deep black lacquer... On it six circular cuts of seafood, white as the clouds and with a texture almost as melting-soft as blancmange, each anointed with a small drop of oil and decorated with a tricolour trail of yellow, black and green... Actually, this may not have been the very first time I've been served the shirako (milt) of the torafugu blowfish — which is of course deadly fatal if taken from the wrong fish and prepared in the wrong way. But it's certainly the only time I've had it garnished with fine chopped negi scallions, yuzu zest, coarse sea salt and — here's the killer — powdered black truffles. Talk about intense. Here's a close-up: