Revisiting the wonderful idiosyncratic Mikawa Zezankyo, which is the featured restaurant in my column this month (July) for Skyward, the inflight magazine of Japan Airlines.
It's some of the very best tempura in Tokyo — and one of the most OTT interiors. Which all adds up to a highly memorable meal.
When Saotome opened Zezankyo five years ago, he envisaged it as more than just a restaurant, but also a salon for writers and artists, a place to showcase the work of local craftsmen. He has installed Buddhist statues and art nouveau stained glass, ceramics and bronzes, with lacquerwork everywhere. And, overhead, hangs a huge copper extractor hood in the shape of a Borsalino, his favorite hat.
This, too, is a reflection of his Edomae aesthetic, in which art appreciation intersects with bon-vivant bravado.…"
As always, the accompanying photos are the outstanding work of Akio Takeuchi.
Unfortunately, the English-language pages are only in Skyward on JAL's international flights. But if you're flying in or out of Japan, I hope this adds a certain vicarious enjoyment to your inflight meal!