"Would you like to see the kitchen?" Chef Olivier Chaignon asks me. What he really means is, "You have to come and see the kitchen they've created for me!" When you get there you understand his excitement.
It's huge, and feels even more so because it's so gleaming and spotless. The pastry kitchen is at the back, all part of the same space instead of being banished to a separate floor, as it was in the old building.
Chaignon introduces me to Head Chef Izumi Yamashita. He's a veteran not just from the previous team, under Bruno Menard, but from the time of the legendary Jacques Borie, who took over at L'Osier in 1986 and established its heavyweight credentials.
But Chaignon is in charge now. And he's keen to give us all a taste of his cuisine. It turns out to be a 7-course meal in miniature: perfect with all that bubbly...
Starting with a simple little number involving tuna wrapped in blanched lettuce leaf, topped on a bed of bouillon gelée and topped with a generous blob of sturgeon roe.
So good it demands a close-up.
Then a smooth, warm mousse that is rich with the woodsy aroma of cep.
Followed by a wonderful risotto with scallops and Alba white truffles…
Sea bass served with a sauce of oursin (uni), concealing a wheat grain "risotto".
Then duck (from Challans, bien sûr) with poireau leek, on creamed potato…
And finally a cube of Hokkaido wagyu filet with classic sauce Bordelaise.
Time to explore the desserts: dark chocolate with a delicate shred of gold leaf…
…concealing a core of pistachio and butterscotch creams.
And finally, just in case we had not been sweetened up enough, there were nice little trays of mignardises and macarons…
L'Osier officially reopened from today (Friday). But if all the above has whetted your appetite, I'm sorry: L'Osier is already fully booked through the end of the year.
But if it's this popular now, imagine what it will be like after the Michelin inspectors have paid their visits and awarded their stars. At least that won't happen until next year.
And my previous post gives a sneak peek of what the new restaurant looks like.